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Because this house is located in the foothills of the Southern Pyrenees we have mountain walks starting at our back door, with GR10 (the Atlantic to the Mediterranean footpath) nearby, and the sea under an hour's drive away. The beaches stretch for dozens of kilometres from the Spanish Border eastwards but easy accessibility to sandy stretches doesn't really start until the length around Argeles. Not all have 'mod. cons.' to hand but our guests confirm that Le Racou, just west of Argeles Plage, takes some beating - although extensive caravan parks are nearby. In high season this means an early arrival is advisable but we have often been on this beach, and many others, in May or September with hardly anyone in sight for long distances east or west. The Mediterranean towns of Port - Vendres and Collioure are truly photogenic - the former is a working fishing port, with rather fine fresh fish shops deep therein, whilst numerous pictures and posters display the latter throughout France which to this day remains an extremely popular "artistic" venue. Harbour or seaside restaurants abound in both towns offering a wide range of menu. It is also possible to go southwards from here following the coastal road through into Spain which offers lovely views, although don't be in a hurry, and make a long U-turn back into France along inland roads. We have built up comprehensive House Books with information garnered over 20 years which suggest places to aim for - and equally important - those to avoid! We have come to appreciate the great importance of the property being located between sea and mountain, in a quiet area, and yet quickly accessible to either. There are many seemingly attractive houses the access to which involves long drives into the hills, and although these are fine for sedentary holidays, the proximity of a good road and all the basic shopping facilities is very important. The Pyrenees are explorable by foot or in the car. Hidden away in our local villages are gems like the restaurant in the little grocers in Corsavy (go hungry), the climbing inn at Les Mines de Baterre or the postal museum at Montferrer. There is a hidden museum in the sandal making town of St Laurent de Cerdans and a fabulous golf course at Falgos. None of these are exotic but very genuine. This latter road (D3) runs southwards, across the recently opened bridge, into Spain with good value restaurants at Tapis and Macanet down towards Figueras. There you will find the once visited never forgotten Dali museum. We have been several times and are just 'coming round' to seeing his point of view and if you are really fascinated by his lifestyle go see his house at Port Ligiat on the coast. Our River Tech valley runs up to Prats de Mollo where the road turns southwards cutting across the Spanish border. This is a worthwhile scenic drive and you will see, or hear, the cows with their large bells and possibly a wild boar (sanglier) but keep clear because it is a mean beast. The Vallespir is renowned for producing the first cherries each year in France and we are currently increasing our productivity so if you visit towards the end of June you should have a surfeit of fruit. The next valley over is the Tet - renowned for its peaches and apricots. A long drive will take you into Andorra but it is really an overnight stop. Pablo Cassals lived in Prades and Moira Lympany in Rasigueres so it is not surprising that musical events abound in these parts during the summer. Watch the paper (L'independent) for booking information or keep an eye on the Syndicate d'Initiative posters. However we always think that our "best family day out" hereabouts is The Little Yellow Train running from Villefranche-de-Conflent right up onto the Cerdagne plain, near Andorra, at Font-Romeu. It is a narrow gauge cog railway running along a spectacular route through the mountains and takes about 90 minutes. Take a picnic lunch, sweaters and camera and make a day of it after consulting the timetable at the house or Syndicate d'Initiative in Amelie or Arles. Gardeners will enjoy the Tropical Garden at Ponteilla just outside Perpignan. This has been put together by a young couple over the past few years and they have tried to make it an educational experience to show local children bananas, coffee and chocolate plants ''in situ'' as well as delighting real horticulturalists. And so it goes on. We have been visiting for twenty years now and still find places to visit, villages to explore in both France and Spain, and 'degustations' in various vineyards to try. It remains rural, so don't expect Michelin starred restaurants, but the food is increasingly good and reasonably priced - as is the wine. Incidentally many folk find the deck chairs in the garden or on the shady terrace just about as far as they need to go - see if you can emulate one visitor who listed 22 bird species seen in the garden and at the moment we have the 23rd to view - French partridge. |